A giant among American chefs, Bradley Ogden runs an upscale mini–restaurant chain that stretches from Marin County to San Diego. This large space with a bay view and a grown-up ambience is his well-known San Francisco outpost. (He also boasts a steak house in the downtown Westfield Centre.) The two-tier dining room seats 140—many of them suits brokering deals—and serves a seasonal, wonderfully homey yet refined menu from chef Mark Dommen that can include tender bacon-wrapped
pork tenderloin with dandelion greens, pan-roasted wild sturgeon with smoked potato purée, and roasted Liberty Farms duck breast and sausage. There is also a weekly changing whole animal menu every Friday and Saturday night, both à la carte and as a four-course prix-fixe for $45. Folks who want only a small sweet to finish can choose from a half dozen mini-desserts, such as chocolate toffee almond cake, a mint chip ice-cream bar, or butterscotch pudding. The wine list includes the best California labels, many by the glass.