Most of the primarily young, hip crowd that packs this Union Street landmark probably don't know what a betelnut is (the seed of an Asian palm, chewed for the mild high it delivers). But they do know they like the pan-Asian cuisine and adventurous drinks (everything from martinis to house-brewed rice beer and sake flights). The menu, divided into big and small plates, noodles, dumplings, and salads, includes chili-crusted calamari, spicy Szechuan green beans, oven-smoked sea bass, and aromatic short ribs with Thai basil and garlic. Lacquered walls, bamboo ceiling fans, and period posters create a comfortably exotic mood that matches the food. Patience is required to cope with long wait times and sluggish service.
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