Arrive here just as local music lovers are folding their napkins and heading off for the 8pm curtain at the nearby Opera House, and you'll snag a table and some perfectly fresh, sustainable, and often local seafood. Much of the fish—sea bass, steelhead, swordfish—is simply grilled and served with a choice of sauces from beurre blanc to lemon-and-caper butter. A pile of crisp, thin Belgian frites rides alongside the grilled offerings. Seasonal dishes can
include combinations like local petrale sole with Mendocino white chanterelles, thyme, and fingerling potatoes (Patricia Unterman oversees the kitchen with chef Rob Zaborny). Folks who eschew water-based fare will be happy to know a Bavette steak and thick pork chops are on the menu. Brass coat hooks, white tablecloths, a long bar, and a mix of banquettes and tables define the traditional San Francisco look of this four-decades-old seafood stronghold.