The name conjures up an image of a dark, smoky bar with a piano player, but this Cantonese restaurant is actually as bright as a new penny. On the lower level (entrance on Kearny Street) is a no-tablecloth dining room that's packed at lunch and dinner. The classy upstairs space (entrance on Commercial Street) is a favorite stop for special-occasion banquets and Chinese businessmen on expense accounts. The street-level room on Kearny is a comfortable spot to wait for an
open table. A menu with photographs helps you pick from the many wonderful, sometimes pricey, always authentic dishes, such as the famous salt-and-pepper Dungeness crab, Peking duck, and shrimp-stuffed tofu. Much of the seafood is fresh from the tank.