An open kitchen, a counter lined with red-topped stools, a dozen or so small tables, and a generally young crowd are tucked into this cozy, bright eatery on the edge of trendy Hayes Valley. The daily-changing blackboard menu is small and invariably appealing, with dishes such as leeks in vinaigrette dressed with sieved hard-cooked egg and capers; a buttery crab omelet; braised short ribs with pureed potatoes; and lamb chops with white beans. Desserts range from a lemon tart to butterscotch pudding to apple crisp. Sunday brunch draws a neighborhood crowd. On the downside, service can be slow, and the sea of hard surfaces can make quiet conversation impossible.
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