An open kitchen, a counter lined with red-topped stools, a dozen or so small tables with wicker bistro chairs, and a generally young crowd are tucked into this cozy, bright eatery on the edge of trendy Hayes Valley. The daily-changing blackboard menu is small and invariably appealing, with seasonal dishes like Dungeness crab salad with chives, avocado, and chervil; cauliflower and sunchoke gratin with Gruyère and thyme; and wood-grilled skirt steak with warm olives sauce.
Desserts range from Meyer lemon tart to butterscotch pudding to the famed Chocolate Nemesis. Sunday brunch draws a neighborhood crowd to the sunny storefront. On the downside: service can be slow, and the sea of hard surfaces can make quiet conversation impossible.