With its long marble bar and open kitchen, this brick-lined two-story space oozes big-city charm. The arrival of skinny, brittle breadsticks is the first sign that the kitchen understands the cuisine of northern Italy, specifically Piedmont. And if the breadbasket doesn't convince you, try the antipasto of house-made cured meats (chef Staffan Terje is known for making some of the city's finest salumi) or burrata (cream-filled mozzarella) with seasonal vegetables,
the delicate agnolotti dal plin (veal-stuffed pasta with a cabbage-laced meat sauce), or pappardelle with short rib ragù. The clientele, a mix of business types and Italian food aficionados, appreciates the big, smart wine list along with the superb food.