America and Japan, along with France and Italy, converge here on the plates of chef Hiro Sone. Favorite dishes include chawan mushi (egg custard) with sea urchin, mushrooms, and lobster and the well-loved sake-marinated black cod. Dishes from the sashimi bar offer additional delights; a particular standout is the tuna tartare with a slow-poached Jidori egg and sea urchin. Co-owner and pastry chef Lissa Doumani handles the sweet portion of the meal, like beer doughnuts with chocolate stout ice cream. The dining room is an attractive and modern space in the handsome St. Regis, which shelters both hotel guest rooms and condominium residences, including one that Al Gore makes his West Coast home. Not surprisingly, the space and the plates attract members of the local—and, some would say, stuffy—elite who know food and have the means to pay a lofty price for it. Some excellent sakes and wines are additional trappings for those with good taste. A small sashimi counter is ideal for solo diners on an expense account.
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