Range

Reserve

Range Review

The name sounds strictly down-home, but the place looks and feels big city. Just across the threshold is a full bar stocked with the best bottles—and plenty of people to appreciate them. An open kitchen with a line of tables opposite comes next, and then the dining room furnished with roomy banquettes and a chatty crowd. The compact, changing menu is a nice mix of high-end and homey, with cured arctic char with shishito peppers and pickled green tomatoes sharing space with coffee-rubbed pork shoulder on creamy hominy and greens. On the sweeter side, you'll find some excellent seasonal desserts, plus a bittersweet chocolate soufflé that will make you forget your diet. For the more ascetic, there are buckwheat crepes with huckleberries and crème fraîche. Service is smooth—informative but not gushy—in both the dining room and the bar. Adventurous cocktail drinkers will want to dip into the specialty drinks menu before dinner.