$$, American, The Mission
Fodor's Review:
Range. The name sounds strictly down home, but the place looks and feels big city. Just across the threshold is a full bar stocked with the best bottles -- and plenty of people to appreciate them. An open kitchen with a line of tables opposite comes next, and then the dining room furnished with roomy banquettes. The compact, changing menu is a nice mix of homey and high-end, with chicken liver mousse and coffee-rubbed pork shoulder on hominy grits. On the sweeter side, you'll find a memorable apple and huckleberry crisp and a bittersweet chocolate soufflé with crème anglaise. Service is smooth -- informative but not gushy -- in both the dining room and the bar. Adventurous cocktail-drinkers will want to dip into the specialty drinks menu before dinner.
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