Marina residents—and, judging from the crowds, everybody else—gravitate to this trattoria named for the autostrada that traverses Italy's sunny south. The kitchen serves the food of Naples and surrounding Campania, with the added twist of seasonal California ingredients. Cult classics include the creamy burrata with olive oil and crostini and crisp-crust pizzas, including a classic Neapolitan Margherita (mozzarella, tomato, and basil). Rustic pasta favorites such as maccaronara with ragu napoletana and house-made salted ricotta might show up on the menu, and for an entrée perhaps petrale sole with crispy black trumpet mushrooms. The selection of primarily southern Italian wines, augmented by some well-chosen California vintages, supports the food perfectly, and there's a substantial beer list. The animated bar scene near the door sets the tone at A16; for a quieter time request a table in the alcove at the far end or try for the patio.
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