Young, well-dressed hipsters with just-cashed paychecks clog this bright, modern space in the Hotel Adagio. In the past, Cortez was one of the town's premier destinations for small plates, but nowadays the menu is a healthy mix of small and large, and folks don't seem to mind the change. The menu is always in flux, but you can find such dishes as roasted Chioggia beets with whipped burrata (creamy mozzarella) and squid salad with coco vert beans under small plates, and sea-fresh sturgeon with guanciale (Italian bacon) and slow-cooked lamb with house-made cavatelli pasta under big plates. If you're in a rush, enjoy crispy fries with harissa-spiked aioli chased by a martini in the bar.
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