San Francisco's first wood-fired pizza oven was installed here in 1935 when the restaurant opened. The oven is still here, and the restaurant, with its coat hooks, boothlike dining nooks, and communal table running the length of the basement dining room, has changed little since those early days. The pizzas' delightfully chewy crusts, creamy mozzarella, and full-bodied house-made sauce have kept legions of happy eaters returning for decades. Pair one of the hearty pies
with broccoli dressed in lemon juice and olive oil and a bottle of the house wine. There are also a variety of old-school pasta dishes (think: ravioli, spaghetti, manicotti), and baked chicken and veal dishes. If you have room—and you may not if you ordered a small pizza for yourself—keep with the classic theme and treat yourself to tiramisu.