France arrived on Potrero Hill with Chez Papa, which delivers food, waiters, and charm that would be right at home in Provence. The modest corner restaurant, with big windows overlooking the street and a small heated patio, caters to a lively crowd that makes conversation difficult. Small plates include mussels in wine, rosemary-scented grilled lamb with ratatouille, and caramelized onion tart with anchovies. Big plates include filet mignon with truffle-and-foie gras sauce, duck confit, and shellfish stew. Typically Gallic desserts include crème brûlée, tarte tatin, and cherry clafouti. To accommodate the overflow of Hill residents who have packed this place since Day One, the owners opened the tiny (and more casual) Chez Maman (crepes, burgers with blue cheese, salads) halfway down the block.
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