Wappa-meshi, rice topped with meat or fish and steamed in a bamboo basket, is the specialty at this diminutive and quiet restaurant featuring the refined Kansai cuisine of Osaka and Kyoto. The sashimi, sukiyaki, udon (try the shrimp tempura version), chawan mushi custard, and freshwater eel on rice in a lacquer box are also first-rate. Everything is served on beautiful tableware, from the smallest sunomono salad to a big lunchtime donburi, protein-topped rice. Maki stocks an impressive assortment of sakes, which it serves in exquisite decanters. Service, of late, has been gruff. There are seats inside the small dining room, or "outside" in the hallway of the Kinokuniya building.
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