From seafood to sourdough, San Francisco does even basic dishes extremely well. But the lines at the most popular brunch spots sprawl onto the streets on Sundays, and good luck catching dinner without a reservation unless you’re Bourdain come back to the living. Plan ahead and take some of the food wars with a grain of salt–it won’t hurt to try both of the “original” homes of the Mission burrito.

To survive long days of endless hills and see every mile of the 7x7 footprint without getting blisters, you’re going to need to get comfortable with public transit. Good thing San Francisco's Municipal Railway (known to locals as Muni) is iconic, well-maintained, and connected throughout the city. Just like the neighborhoods, even the busses have unique personalities. Watch out for the rare ghost bus and don’t get a Sunset neighborhood resident started on the timeliness of the N-Judah.

The weather in San Francisco has been a running joke since at least the days of Mark Twain. It might be spitting rain in the Avenues and the perfect temperature for an It’s-It in the Bayview. Knowing about the fog belt can help you predict conditions, but it’s best to wear “the uniform” when you visit: layers, athletic wear cuts, and waterproof materials lend themselves well to the fluctuations. As long as you plan your outfits and itinerary, the worst that will happen is you’ll have a fun story about running into local celebrity Karl the Fog.

In San Francisco, the night crew packs a powerful punch. Stay out into the evening and visit a historic queer bar or drag show. Sing karaoke. Grab a bite at Orphan Andy’s. But nightlife isn’t the only way to get to know the city intimately. Check out costumes at dawn during Bay to Breakers, rifle through vintage toys at the annual Bernal Heights garage sale, and snuggle up for early afternoon concerts in Stern Grove. Every resident can access a park within a 10-minute walk, and practically every park is on a hill with a good view. Daytime rules, and San Francisco is the city of picnics.

San Francisco is notoriously civically engaged. It’s part of what makes visiting so special because even the trash cans are a conversation starter. From local guerilla historians pasting flyers in the Outside Lands to the activist nuns from the order of the Sisters of Perpetual Indulgence, everyone here finds their own way of getting involved. Don’t let it scare you; S.F. is still, at heart, a hospitable little beatnik ready to show visitors around, warts and all.