With blinis made in a skillet from St. Petersburg, Russia, yellowtail from Kona, and Kobe beef from Washington, this bastion of contemporary American cuisine geeks out on well-sourced ingredients and implements. For mains, the perfectly cooked Louisiana prawns on spicy grits is a perennial favorite. The wines are very well chosen, and the lime posset for dessert is a can't-miss. Tucked off an alley, the soaring space seems more New York than San Francisco, with a rockin' downstairs lounge, gleaming surfaces, and raw-wood beams. For a quiet dinner, try to get a booth on the top level near the kitchen.