A reservation here is practically impossible to get, but if you do walk in and commit to a 90-plus minute wait you'll eventually be treated to a festive parade of bites that roll around on carts dim-sum style. Choices include half dollar–sized thick savory pancakes stuffed with sauerkraut; giant nori chips topped with Hamachi, radishes, and avocados; and about 15 or so other nightly creations, often with a Japanese slant. The colorful dining room with pegboard walls
has a high school art-room vibe. The staff remains super friendly, even though they turn away dozens. Get here an hour before opening and wait in line, or come at 5:30, leave your number, and the host will page you when the table is ready.