To leave co-chefs Evan and Sarah Rich's popular place without ordering the porcini doughnuts, served with a raclette béchamel sauce, is a dining sin. That and the sardines in chip format are the two most popular bites, and you should wander to the mains half of the menu for one of the half-dozen pastas or proteins, like a seared black cod with crunchy skin. The room's weathered-wood wallboards repurposed from a Northern California sawmill give it a homey vibe. There's a nice selection of wines by the glass and artisanal cocktails. All seats are by reservation only and are not an easy acquisition. Ten bar seats are available for walk-ins.