This small Valencia Street restaurant is a nice mix of high-end and homey, with chicken liver mousse or egg pasta with smoked trumpet mushrooms sharing space with California rainbow trout with German butterball potatoes and sautéed puntarelle. Adventurous cocktail drinkers will want to take advantage of the skilled bar. On the sweeter side, you'll find some excellent seasonal desserts, plus a bittersweet chocolate soufflé with prune-walnut ice cream. The name may sound
strictly down-home, but this place looks and feels big-city.