The only Swedish restaurant in San Francisco is tucked behind the lobby of the Inn at the Opera and serves refreshing cuisine—fishes pickled, smoked, and cured in-house. A dill purée with lemon crème fraîche and a homemade spicy mustard complement the delicate salmon gravlax. Chef Roberth Sundell is from Stockholm, and the Swedish meatballs with lingonberry gravy is a treasured family recipe. The money spot is the table in front of the fireplace. FYI, Pläj is pronounced "play" and has no Swedish translation. It's just pläjing with you. There's a gluten-free menu.