For a little bonhomie before the symphony, this buzzy yakitori and izakaya spot serves stellar Japanese pub food, made from Bay Area ingredients. The menu is divided into items "on a stick" and "not on a stick." Much of the "stick" is yakitori (grilled chicken), like chicken skin with matcha sea salt and tsukune (a chicken meatball) with egg yolk sauce. Not on a stick is the savory, rich custard, chawan mushi, with Dungeness crabmeat and shiitake mushrooms. Seating is at bamboo tables in a mod-Japanese-slash-San Franciscan setting with windows overlooking Hayes Valley's main thoroughfare of Franklin. There are 20 sakes by the glass. Nojo requires a credit card number to hold a reservation.