The owners of lauded Delfina have bestowed another culinary gift on the city. Only this time the muse for the menu is Rome. An addictive starter is pizza bianca: chewy, hot bread that holds mini puddles of olive oil and is sprinkled with sea salt. The peppery and creamy pasta, tonnarelli cacio e pepe, is a signature. A good strategy here is to double down on pastas and antipasti, then share a main. Finely made cocktails arrive at dark-wood tables on a candlelit tray, and white Heath wall tiles lend a Mission vibe. This is a busy place with the bar stools constantly occupied.