Hang on, because chef Jake Des Voignes is about take you on a seafood joyride. With no industrial ovens or high-powered burners, this 30-seat place is really about the delicate, natural flavors of California's seasonal bounty, from the fish to the fennel, Japanese yams, and sunchokes. To immerse yourself in Des Voignes's genius, make a reservation for the seven-course, very reasonably priced tasting ($65) at the chef's counter. The three-course brunches are as well-crafted as dinner, with dishes that include waffles with chicory syrup, and chicken sausage and polenta. Although the food is solid, the service is too casual.