The scene is high-style (and high-priced) Vietnamese food served up in a French-colonial time machine: stamped-tin ceiling, period photographs, slow-moving fans, and tropical plants. Pick from among the big selection of fried or fresh appetizer rolls, filled with everything from shredded duck to Dungeness crab. Downstairs are two large and rather formal dining rooms. Anything goes upstairs in the lively lounge: you can eat appetizers, listen to live music, or just sip a cocktail and take in the scene. Plenty of locals find the dining room stuffy—and expensive—but are quick to defend the lounge.