The fresh, simply prepared seafood, quickly cooked vegetables and meats, with no fiery chilies, is signature Cantonese-style cuisine, and the reason to dine here (as notables such as President Obama have done). Tanks filled with freshwater- and saltwater-creatures occupy a corner of the street-level main dining room. Kids will find their Chinese-restaurant favorites here: stir-fried noodles, cashew chicken, fried rice. The dim sum starts at 10 am, but there aren't any carts, however—you order off a paper sheet, and the dumplings come out of the kitchen piping hot. Avoid the basement dining room if possible, which is brightly lit but claustrophobic.