San Franciscans have always had a weakness for little French bistros, which helped make Florio a hit from the day it opened. It had all the elements: a space that looked like a Paris address, classic charcuterie and roast chicken, and reasonably priced French wines. Since then, this neighborhood favorite has picked up a thick Italian accent, with chicken-liver crostini, pappardelle with short rib ragù, and risotto with chanterelles lining up next to endive salad, steamed mussels, and steak frites with béarnaise on the menu. Save room for the kitchen's bittersweet chocolate brioche bread pudding with salted caramel. The room can get noisy, so don't come here hoping for a quiet tête-à-tête. You can eat at the bar, too, a nice plus if you're on the town solo.