Most of the young, hip crowd that packs this Union Street landmark probably don't know what a betel nut is—it's the seed of an Asian palm, chewed for the mild high it delivers—but they do know they like the Pan-Asian cuisine and adventurous drinks (everything from martinis to house-brewed rice beer and sake flights). The menu, divided into big and small plates, noodles, dumplings, and salads, includes chili-crusted calamari, spicy Chinese green beans (which are usually
on every table, along with the chicken in lettuce cups), flavor-packed cumin lamb in sesame buns, sea bass "cha ca la vong" prepared table-side, plus a memorable beggar's chicken baked in clay. Lacquered walls, bamboo ceiling fans, and period posters create a comfortably exotic mood that matches the food. Patience is required to cope with long wait times and the occasional noise from large parties.