The formula here basically works: excellent cocktails, an array of affordable antipasti, solid pizzas, piatti del giorno (daily mains), and late dining until 1 am. The bartenders are both serious and friendly. The pizzas respect their Italian heritage (thin crusts, traditional and contemporary toppings) and the antipasti are an appealing mix of vegetables (cauliflower with capers), fish (a light fritto misto), and artisanal salumi. The long room with tin ceiling and bare-wood tables is casual and smart, and typically filled with a young crowd. What doesn't work here? Conversation. Come on the weekends for a late lunch or brunch, and you'll probably cruise right in.