An offshoot of the cultlike Tartine Bakery, this artsy space provides a way to taste the bakery's famed (and nearly always sold-out) country loaf. Flavor-packed cuisine is eclectic, influenced by Eastern Europe, Scandinavia, and Japan with California sensibility. The menu includes many house-pickled items, tempting langos (fried potato bread), and seasonal salads such as smoked potatoes with black garlic. Chicken paprikas and fisherman's stew are among the homey dishes. Weekend brunch is one of the city's more distinct offerings in that category, with buckwheat blintzes, and a beef-brisket hash with celery root, parsnip, Yukon Gold potatoes, and fried eggs.