Chef-owner Mourad Lahlou's California-Moroccan food boasts a healthy dose of modernity that keeps locals coming back for his unique flavors and thoughtfully sourced ingredients. Diners enjoy inspired and gorgeously plated first courses that are always changing with the seasons, like big fin squid with artichoke, citrus, piquillo, and olive, or sweetbreads with winter squash, cornichon, and marash pepper. The main courses are equally elegant, ranging from squab with
smoked farro to lamb shank with a kumquat glaze and cranberry couscous. The basteeya is one delicious holdover from the restaurant's earlier rustic days. Desserts here are as sophisticated as the savory dishes. The attractive three-room dining area, done in blue, saffron, and white, is a warm, inviting sea of tiles, arches, and candlelight. The food-friendly wine contains organic and biodynamic options, and cocktail enthusiasts can choose from more than two dozen inspired drinks that use ingredients like tarragon, kaffir lime, and cumin.