Nightlife & the Arts in San Francisco

From ultrasophisticated piano bars] to come-as-you-are dives that reflect the city's gold-rush past, San Francisco has a tremendous variety of evening entertainment. Although you never know exactly where you might stumble upon an elegant cocktail lounge or a hip dance club, knowing some neighborhood generalizations can improve your chance of finding the kind of entertainment you want. Nob Hill is noted for its plush hotel bars and panoramic skyline lounges. North Beach—though it still has a short stretch of strip clubs along Broadway—is mostly known for historic bars that invoke the city's beatnik past and sleek lounges full of locals and visitors alike who stop in before or after dinner at one of the area's many mom-and-pop Italian restaurants. Fisherman's Wharf, although touristy, is great for people-watching and is convenient to many hotels. Tony Union Street and the nearby Marina are where you find singles bars that attract well-dressed and well-to-do crowds in their twenties and thirties. South of Market—or SoMa—is a nightlife hub, with a bevy of popular dance clubs, bars, and supper clubs, as well as a few excellent live-music venues. The gay and lesbian scenes center on the Castro district and along Polk Street. Twentysomethings and alternative types should check out the ever-funky Mission District and Haight Street scenes, although even these two neighborhoods get more upscale cocktail lounges and fewer dive bars every year.

For information on who's performing where, check out the "Datebook" insert of the San Francisco Chronicle, or consult the free San Francisco Bay Guardian, which lists neighborhood, avant-garde, and budget-price events. The SF Weekly, also free, blurbs nightclubs and music venues and is packed with information on arts events around town. Another handy reference is the weekly Where magazine, offered free in most major hotel lobbies and at Hallidie Plaza (Market and Powell streets).

Except at a few skyline lounges, you're not expected to dress up. Nevertheless, jeans are the exception and stylish dress is the norm at most nightspots. Of course, stylish means a black designer outfit at one place and funky thrift-store togs at another, so you have to use your judgment. You can safely wear wool to a bar in San Francisco without fearing it'll reek of cigarette smoke for days afterward: State law forbids smoking in any indoor place of work, including bars and clubs, except for the very few that are staffed entirely by the owners. Although bartenders in many drinking establishments tolerate smoking, the police do not, and anyone caught lighting up may be fined. But the cops don't usually bother with enforcement (unless someone has filed a complaint), so if you smoke, follow the lead of locals. Bars generally close between midnight and 2 AM; those catering to an after-work crowd in the Financial District, however, may stop serving as early as 9 or 10 PM. Bands and other performers usually begin between 8 and 11 PM. The cover charge at smaller clubs ranges from $5 to $10, and credit cards are rarely accepted. At the larger venues the cover may spike to $30, and tickets usually can be purchased through Tickets.com.

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