Bicycling in San Francisco

San Francisco is known for its treacherously steep hills, so it may be surprising to see so many cyclists. This is actually a great city for biking—there are ample bike lanes, it's not hard to find level ground with great scenery (along the water), and if you're willing to tackle a challenging uphill climb, you're often rewarded with a fabulous view—and a quick trip back down.

The San Francisco Bicycle Coalition (415/431-2453. www.sfbike.org) has extensive information about the policies and politics of riding a bicycle in the city and lists local events for cyclists on its Web site. You can also download (but not print) a PDF version of the San Francisco Bike Map and Walking Guide.

Where to Rent

Bike and Roll. You can rent bikes here for $7 per hour or $27 per day; discounted weekly rates are available. They also have complimentary maps. 734 Lombard St., North Beach. 888/544-2453 or 415/771-8735. www.bicyclerental.com. Bike Hut. Known for its mom-and-pop-style service, the Hut is a small rental-, repair-, and used-bike shop. Hourly rentals go for $5, daily rentals for $20. Pier 40, SoMa. 415/543-4335. www.thebikehut.com. Blazing Saddles. This outfitter rents bikes for $7 an hour or $28 a day, and shares tips on sights to see along the paths. 2715 Hyde St., Fisherman's Wharf. 415/202-8888. www.blazingsaddles.com. San Francisco Cyclery. Rent a bike for $15 for one to two hours, $20 for two to four hours, or $30 for eight hours. 672 Stanyan St., between Page and Haight Sts., Haight. 415/379-3870. www.sanfranciscocyclery.com. Wed.-Mon. 10-6. From April through October, you can rent mountain bikes on Angel Island (415/435-1915. www.angelisland.org) for $10 an hour or $30 a day.

The Embarcadero

A completely flat, sea-level route, the Embarcadero hugs the eastern and northern bay and gives you a clear view of open waters, the Bay Bridge, and sleek high-rises. The route from Pier 40 to Aquatic Park takes about 30 minutes, and there are designated bike lanes the entire way. Along the way you can see—from east to west—the Ferry Building, the Bay Bridge, a view of Coit Tower near Pier 19 (look inland), and various ferries and historic ships. At Aquatic Park, there's a nice view of Golden Gate Bridge. If you're not tired yet, continue along the Marina and through the Presidio's Crissy Field. You may want to time your ride so you end up at the Ferry Building, where you can refuel with a sandwich, a gelato, or—why not?—fresh oysters.

Be sure to keep your eyes open along this route—cars move quickly here, and streetcars and tourist traffic can cause congestion. Near Fisherman's Wharf you can bike on the promenade, but take it slow—we've seen more than one near miss between bicyclist and pedestrian.

Golden Gate Park

A beautiful maze of roads and hidden bike paths crisscrosses San Francisco's most famous park, winding past rose gardens, lakes, waterfalls, museums, horse stables, bison, and, at the park's western edge, spectacular views of the Pacific Ocean. John F. Kennedy Drive is closed to motor vehicles on Sunday (and sometimes Saturday), when it's crowded with people-powered wheels. Get a map of the park before you go—it's huge.

From the eastern entrance of the park between Oak and Fell streets, veer right to begin a 30- to 45-minute, 3-mi ride down John F. Kennedy Drive through the park to the Great Highway, where land meets ocean. Take a break and watch the waves roll in at Ocean Beach, or cross the street for a drink or a bite to eat at the casual, tree-shrouded Park Chalet (behind the Beach Chalet). Extend your ride a few more miles by turning left, riding a few blocks, and connecting with a raised bike path that runs parallel to the Pacific, winds through fields of emerald-green ice plant, and, after 2 mi, leads to Sloat Boulevard and the San Francisco Zoo. On exceptionally windy days, expect to encounter blowing sand along this route.

The Marina Green & Golden Gate Bridge

The Marina Green, a vast lawn at the edge of the northern bayfront, stretches along Marina Boulevard, adjacent to Fort Mason. It's the starting point of a well-trod, paved bike path that runs through the Presidio along Crissy Field's waterfront wetlands, then heads for the Golden Gate Bridge and beyond. To do this ride, first take the path from Aquatic Park through Fort Mason to the Marina Green. Continue into the Presidio, and you'll eventually reach the base of the bridge, a 60-minute ride round-trip. To view the bridge from underneath, stay at water level and ride to Fort Point (where Kim Novak leaped into the drink in the film Vertigo).

If you want to cross the bridge, take Lincoln Boulevard to reach the road-level viewing area and continue across the bridge (signs indicate which side you must use). Once you're across, turn right on the first road leading northeast, Alexander Avenue. After a 10-minute all-downhill ride, you'll arrive on Bridgeway in downtown Sausalito, where you can rest in a café. After a little shopping, board the Blue & Gold Fleet's ferry (the ferry terminal is at the end of Bridgeway) with your bike for the half-hour ride back to Fisherman's Wharf.

If it's overcast, foggy, or windy, don't bother doing the Golden Gate Bridge bike ride—the wind can feel downright dangerous on the bridge, and the trip is only awe-inspiring when you can take in the view.

Angel Island State Park

A former military garrison and a beautiful wildlife preserve, Angel Island has some steep roads and great views of the city and the bay. Bicycles must stay on roadways; there are no single-track trails on the island. A ferry operated by Blue & Gold Fleet (415/705-8200. www.blueandgoldfleet.com) runs to the island from Pier 41 at Fisherman's Wharf and takes about 20 minutes one way; the fare is $14.50 round-trip, which includes park admission. Ferries leave once a day at 10 AM weekdays and 10:30 AM weekends, returning at around 3:30 PM; schedules change, so call for up-to-date info. Twenty-five bicycles are permitted on-board on a first-come, first-served basis. The café is closed mid-November through February, so bring your own grub. 415/435-1915. www.angelisland.org.