Named after the Provençal black-olive-and-anchovy paste, Tapenade specializes in the fresh cuisine of the south of France, and the food fits perfectly with the unpretentious, light, and airy room, lined with 1960s French movie posters, in which it's served. Fresh ingredients, a delicate touch with sauces, and an emphasis on seafood characterize the menu, which changes frequently. If you're lucky, it may include wild boar stewed in red wine, lobster with white corn sauce
flavored with Tahitian vanilla, pan-gilded sea scallops, and desserts like chocolate fondant and profiteroles. The two-course "Riviera Menu" served at lunch for $21.95 is a steal.