Proprietor Tracy Borkum redid the former Laurel, turning it into a casual and stylish Cal-Italian spot that's quickly becoming one of the most popular tables in town.Weathered wood treatments, boho floral tablecloths covered in butcher paper, and creamy vinyl barrel chairs wrapped in burlap signal the sea change.Nothing on the menu is more than $20 and diners can pop into the retail wine room, select a bottle, and drink it with dinner for just $7 corkage. The ricotta gnocchi bathed in brown butter and fried sage are the best yet, fried squash blossoms sing, and polenta boards mixed tableside are creative and satisfying. The best entrees include a pork milanesa with artichoke salad and short rib pappardelle. Sit at the cozy pizza oven bar and watch the chefs turn out bubbly, thin crust pizzas topped with wild mushroom and taleggio or pancetta fried egg and potatoes, or find a spot at the main bar for a clever cocktail crafted from seasonal fruit and Italian liqueurs.
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