Cucina Urbana Review
Proprietor Tracy Borkum's casual and stylish Cal-Italian spot remains one of the most popular tables in town. Everything is reasonably priced, and diners can pop into the retail wine room, select a bottle, and drink it with dinner for a modest corkage fee. The ricotta gnudi bathed in brown butter and fried sage are the best yet; fried squash blossoms sing; and polenta boards mixed tableside are creative and satisfying. Also good are the lasagna, the short rib pappardelle, and the mushroom garganelli with goat cheese fonduta. Sit at the cozy bar and watch the chefs turn out bubbly, thin-crust pizzas topped with wild mushroom and taleggio cheese or pancetta and brussels sprout leaf, or find a spot at the main bar for a clever cocktail crafted from seasonal fruit and Italian liqueurs.
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