Cucina Urbana

Reserve

Cucina Urbana Review

Proprietor Tracy Borkum transformed the former Laurel into a casual and stylish Cal-Italian spot that's quickly become one of the most popular tables in town. Weathered wood treatments, boho floral tablecloths covered in butcher paper, and creamy vinyl barrel chairs wrapped in burlap signal the sea change. Nothing on the dinner menu is more than $20 and diners can pop into the retail wine room, select a bottle, and drink it with dinner for just a $7 corkage fee. The ricotta gnocchi bathed in brown butter and fried sage are the best yet; fried squash blossoms sing; and polenta boards mixed tableside are creative and satisfying. The best entrées include a pork milanese with artichoke salad, and short rib pappardelle. Sit at the cozy bar and watch the chefs turn out bubbly, thin-crust pizzas topped with wild mushroom and taleggio cheese or pancetta fried egg and potatoes, or find a spot at the main bar for a clever cocktail crafted from seasonal fruit and Italian liqueurs.