Engineered to recall an oceanliner from the 1940s—there are tubes of Brylcreem in the men's room, for goodness sake—Oceanaire is a bit put-on, but admirable for the long bar serving up classic cocktails, oysters, and sashimi, and a carefully prepared menu that offers up to 25 daily "fresh catches," and many specialties ranging from convincing Maryland crab cakes and oysters Rockefeller to richly stuffed California sole, a luxurious one-pound pork chop, and irresistible hash brown potatoes. Chef Brian Malarkey creates a daily menu that may include the deliciously hot, spice-fired "angry" pink snapper. Service is a casual thing in San Diego, which makes the professional staff here all the more notable.
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