Engineered to recall the bold, sprawling America of the 1940s -- there are tubes of Brylcreem in the men's room, for goodness sake -- Oceanaire is a bit put-on, but nonetheless admirable for a carefully prepared menu that offers up to 25 daily "fresh catches," as well as a host of specialties ranging from convincing Maryland crab cakes and steaming oysters Rockefeller to richly stuffed California sole, a luxurious one-pound pork chop, and irresistible hash brown potatoes. Chef Brian Malarkey enjoys himself with a daily menu that may include the deliciously hot, spice-fired "angry" lobster. Service is a sometime thing in San Diego, which makes the professional staff here all the more notable.
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