For more than two decades, Andrés was San Diego's sole outpost for savory Cuban and Puerto Rican cuisine. In a nondescript building in the Morena Boulevard home-furnishings district near Pacific Beach, it's still not much to look at, but the enclosed-patio dining room is comfortable, and servers smile as they place heaped-high plates of breaded steak, roast pork, and grilled marinated fish in front of impressed diners. For Cuban home cooking at its best, order the picadillo,
a ground-beef hash with bold and piquant flavors and avoid the often-overcooked pollo asado. All entrées are accompanied by oceans of delicious black beans and mountains of rice. Nothing ever changes here, which is just how the regulars like it.
Jan 25, 2006
the food here is the bomb!!! but the service is poor.
Sep 24, 2003
Anybody who has traveled a good deal knows that Fodor's tells you where to buy jewelry and hang out with the moneyed snobs, but rarely finds the pleasant, reasonable spots favored by locals. Calling Andre's bare bones, basic, non-nonsense, gives the impression it's a dump with linoleum covered tables and food slapped down by surly waiters. There is a very nice, fresh white dining room with carpets and white table cloths (glass-covered to be sure,
but attractive), and excellent, fresh-cooked home-style Cuban-Caribbean (not Mexican, not Tex-Mex, not Spanish) food. I had an excellent meal in pleasant surroundings with good service, at a very reasonable price. Juicy pernil de puerco, yuca al mojo de ajo, arroz con guandú (gandules) a sopa de chícharos flavored with herbs that smelled and tasted like heaven, all with cheap, crisp Chilean wines and wonderfuly crackly garlic bread made from a flauta (Cuban-style baguette). In a business district, but so is every good restaurant in New York and Paris.