This charmer serves old world–style cooking in a casual environment. For a more relaxed meal, choose a table on the sidewalk; inside, the dining room is livelier, and jammed with art and fellow diners. Baked eggplant in a mozzarella-topped tomato sauce is a dream of a dish—in San Diego, tomato sauce doesn't get better than this. Other options worth considering include the sea bass in mushroom sauce, a hearty cioppino, and an expert osso bucco. There are affordable
and varied wines to pair with everything. The young Italian waiters' good humor makes this a fun experience.