Chef William Bradley, who helms Addison, the county’s top fine-dining restaurant, now has this casual offshoot in the heart of La Jolla. Bistro Bijou harkens back to 1930s Paris with a wine-hued dining room, lively lounge, Edith Piaf soundtrack, and menu of deftly prepared French classics. Bradley worked with Chef de Cuisine Shaun Gethin to polish small plates like salmon rillettes, oeufs mayonnaise, and expertly dressed salads. Entrées, some days in the making, range from coq au vin and steak frites to French-style gnocchi and rainbow trout on a bed of pistou-flavored lentils. A refined list of French and West Coast vintages makes wine parings an adventure. Warm beignets or Parsian macarons for dessert are très bon.