For decades, this venerable 12th-floor dining room with panoramic city and bay views has reigned as a celebratory fine-dining destination. Rejuvenated decor and cuisine, plus a popular happy hour, now draw after-work and pretheater crowds for cocktails and bites. Chef Stephane Voitzwinkler creates California-luxe seasonal dishes that span paella and cassoulet, grilled duck and veal, and Maine lobster and Dover sole. Fries and mac and cheese are scented with truffles for a continental touch, while one popular dessert, the popcorn-topped caramel and chocolate bar, is deliciously playful. The professional staff, led by the restaurant’s namesake Betrand Hug, is polished and attentive. Park for free on the street after 6 pm; there’s no validation for the underground garage.