For more than two decades, Andrés was San Diego's sole outpost for savory Cuban and Puerto Rican cuisine. In a nondescript building in the Morena Boulevard home-furnishings district near Pacific Beach, it's still not much to look at, but the enclosed-patio dining room is comfortable, and servers smile as they place heaped-high plates of breaded steak, roast pork, and grilled marinated fish in front of impressed diners. For Cuban home cooking at its best, order the picadillo, a ground-beef hash with bold and piquant flavors and avoid the often-overcooked pollo asado. All entrées are accompanied by oceans of delicious black beans and mountains of rice. Nothing ever changes here, which is just how the regulars like it.