A staid, mostly forties-plus crowd gathers in the warm glow of soft lighting and butter-yellow walls to feast on a short list of French favorites at this petite eatery. The menu varies by the season; starters might include a tart filled with crab and goat cheese or mussels steamed with rosé and shallots. Entrées are generous and include a surprisingly light wild-mushroom savory bread pudding and a flatiron steak with anchovy-mustard butter.
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