The flagship Carneros Chardonnay is the star at Cuvaison (pronounced coo-vay-ZON), whose slick, modern tasting room was constructed from inventively recycled materials. The winery also makes Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, and Syrah under its own label, and Brandlin Cabernet Sauvignons and Zinfandel wines from a historic Mount Veeder estate 1,200 feet above the Napa Valley floor. Some wines can be purchased only at the winery, or sometimes online. All tastings are sit-down style, either indoors or, in good weather, on an outdoor patio whose lounge chairs and vineyard views encourage you to take the time to savor the wines. You must make an appointment to visit, but even on the shortest of notice you can usually get in.