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Fodor's Southern California 2014
The Thomas Review
Chef Brad Farmerie, formerly at New York's famed Public, tickles the palates of locals, visitors, and his peers with earthy-yet-lofty preparations—served inside an iconic downtown building that was closed for decades, shrouded in murder and mystery. There's no mystery to Farmerie's winning approach, though. Appetizers like chicken-fried sweetbreads with yam waffles and Asian pear salad with Point Reyes blue cheese contain subtle surprises, setting up diners for the in-your-face delights of such main dishes as roasted saddle of monkfish with chorizo, clams, eggplant, and tomato-caper stew; Moroccan braised lamb shank with cheesy grits; and a killer burger made of Angus and Kobe beef and served with bacon-onion jam. The on-site Fagiani's Bar at The Thomas serves mod cocktails to a youngish crowd. In good weather head up to the rooftop deck for its perfect views.
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