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Fodor's Southern California 2014
Redd Wood Review
Not to be confused with his ultrachic Redd, chef Richard Reddington's more casual restaurant specializes in thin-crust wood-fired pizzas and contemporary variations on rustic Italian classics. The cool nonchalance of the industrial decor mirrors the service (which at its best provides an antidote to the fussiness found elsewhere) and the cuisine itself. The glazed beef short ribs, for instance, seem
like yet another fancy take on a down-home favorite until you realize how cleverly the sweetness of the glaze plays off the creamy polenta and the piquant splash of salsa verde. Redd Wood does for Italian comfort food what nearby Mustards Grill does for the American version: it spruces it up but retains its innate pleasures.
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