Mere steps from Sebastopol, the hands-down best restaurant in the tiny hamlet of Graton admittedly doesn't have much competition, but it's so good, it would hold its own in San Francisco. Run by the same people who operate the Willow Wood Market Cafe across the street, the Underwood has a dual menu based on tapas-style small dishes from Spain, Portugal, Italy, France, and even Asia, along with larger plates like osso bucco and mushroom-leek ravioli. Perhaps most important,
though, Underwood is the rare place in western Sonoma County where you can get a French onion soup and a glass of wine late on a Friday or Saturday night. A bar menu is served between lunch and dinner most days, when many other restaurants close.