The visual delights at this winning restaurant include its clean lines and handsome decor, but the eye inevitably drifts westward to the open kitchen, where chef Armando Navarro and his diligent crew craft flavorful dishes full of subtle surprises. Pumpkin seeds and spiced marshmallows top the popular butternut squash soup, for instance, adding a crunchy-sweet piquancy that plays well off the dish's predominantly savory sentiments. Focusing on locally sourced ingredients,
the menu might include Petaluma duck breast enlivened by the tangy flavors of parsnip purée, braised endive, roasted turnips, persimmons, and huckleberries. Even a simple dish like truffle-oil fries, liberally sprinkled with Parmesan cheese, charms with its combination of tastes and textures. The noteworthy desserts include an apple tart tatin, banana crisp with lime curd, and molten chocolate cake.