Wells Guthrie, Copain's winemaker, is the kind of guy who spends his vacation working in a French vineyard, the better to understand how sun, soil, climate, and time-honored agricultural techniques combine to create great wines. This single-mindedness serves him well: his restrained yet accessible Chardonnays, Pinot Noirs, and Syrahs are marvelous examples of intuitive craftsmanship supported by deep knowledge. The Copain wines are among the most "European" ones produced
in Sonoma County. The grapes come from elsewhere, mostly Mendocino and Monterey counties, and the wines produced here have understated flavors that reflect the cool climate and rocky coastal terrain. This winery occupies a hillside perch that begs you to sit, sip, and bask in the view.