Comfort foods aren't often described as nuanced, but the term aptly describes the locally sourced preparations chef Norm Owens conjures up at his modest roadside restaurant. Take the fries (but not too many): long and not at all lean, they're cooked in duck fat and served with malt-vinegar aioli, lending them a richness that lingers pleasingly in your memory. There's lots of frying going on—even Cornish game hen gets the treatment. Up against these dishes, the
pasta offerings almost seem light, and the appetizers—among them spicy ahi tuna with a ponzu sauce, avocado mousse, and crispy wontons—downright dainty.