At his tiny, deservedly popular eatery, chef Ari Rosen prepares rustic Italian specialties such as sugo Calabrese (tomato-braised beef and pork rib served with smoked mozzarella in a tomato sauce) and house-made ravioli stuffed with braised rabbit, leeks, and black trumpets. Simple thin-crust pizzas make fine meals, too. Locals love the restaurant for its lack of pretension: wine is served in juice glasses, and the friendly hostess makes the rounds to ensure everyone is satisfied. You'll be packed in elbow-to-elbow with your fellow diners, but for a convivial evening over a bottle of Nebbiolo, there's no better choice.
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