For old-school romance and service, many diners return year after year to this quiet favorite in an 1884 fieldstone building. Beloved chef Hiro Sone gives an unexpected twist to Italian and southern French cuisine in such dishes as porcini mushroom soup with grilled Berkshire pork jowl. A few standouts, like the signature sake-marinated black cod in a shiso broth, draw on Sone's Japanese background. Homey yet elegant desserts, courtesy of Sone's wife, Lissa Doumani,
might include a chocolate brownie parfait with vanilla bean ice cream, caramelized bananas, and fudge sauce. Next door, the lively Bar Terra serves cocktails, local wines, and a menu of smaller, lighter dishes, among them succulent fried rock shrimp served with a chive-mustard sauce.