Co-owner Giovanni Scala might be around to warmly welcome you to this lively bistro, where you can peek past the copper pots hanging in the open kitchen to see the 750-degree wood-burning oven. The Cal-Italian food is simultaneously inventive and comforting: an excellent fritto misto usually composed of onions, fennel, calamari, and plump rock shrimp; pizza with wild mushrooms, roasted garlic, and smoked mozzarella; and whole roasted fish. Children are welcome here, catered
to with paper-topped tables and crayons and such tempting offerings as pizza topped with cheese, french fries, and "no green stuff." Fodors.com users suggest angling for a table on the covered patio for a "more intimate and quiet" experience.